Fort Ross ale lives up to Anchor’s tradition

Beer Man is a weekly profile of beers from across the country and around the world.

This week: Fort Ross Farmhouse Ale

Anchor Brewing Co., San Francisco

www.anchorbrewing.com

Anchor Brewing Co. existed before there was anything called a craft brewery. At one time, way back in the early 1970s, its Anchor Steam, Porter, Old Foghorn barleywine and Liberty Ale were among the few craft beers available in stores besides imports.

All of those beers still stand the test of time, along with the brewery's annual Christmas beer, which features a different recipe each season. It was a nice surprise recently to see a new release from them, the Fort Ross Farmhouse Ale, which is part of its Zymaster Series specialty line.

The 7.2% ABV ale contains yerba santa, an herbal plant that has leaves used in Mexican recipes, such as tamales and mole verde, and has traditional medicinal values. The main flavors attributed to the herb are anise or root beer.

First, Fort Ross is a very good farmhouse or saison ale. It had a nice apricot and grain aroma to start things off and poured a nice orange-amber color. The apricot was present in the flavor, along with subtle hints of licorice in the background from the yerba santa. The use of the herb was just right, not taking away from the main flavors of the ale, yet providing a unique profile.

A slight pine flavor from the hops also hovered in the background and added a touch more bitterness than might be typical for a farmhouse ale, but again, didn't take away from the main flavors. The ale was clean and crisp on the tongue and had a slightly dry finish.

All in all, a good farmhouse ale that strays from its European counterparts with some slight American modifications from the hops. I look forward to trying its next Zymaster beer, the Harvest One American Pale Ale. It is said to use a new experimental hop that gives off flavors and aromas of peach and melon.

Fort Ross Farmhouse Ale is available in 26 states; its Beer Finder l! ink is here.

Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer's website, which often contains information on product availability. Contact Todd Haefer at beerman@postcrescent.com. To read previous Beer Man columns Click here.